Japan · The Sea of Japan coast
On the Sea of Japan coast, reached now in just a few hours from Tokyo by the Hokuriku Shinkansen, Kanazawa is the cultured city that many first-timers miss, and one of my own favorite corners of the country. A former samurai stronghold spared the bombing of the war, it has kept its old districts, its crafts and its quiet confidence intact.
Its crown is Kenroku-en, counted among the three great gardens of Japan and beautiful in every season, from plum blossom to snow-laden pines. Nearby you can wander the preserved teahouse lanes of Higashi Chaya, where geisha still entertain behind latticed windows, and visit the grand restored keep of Kanazawa Castle just across the way.
Kanazawa is also Japan's gold leaf capital, producing almost all of the country's supply, and you will find it gilding lacquerware, screens and even a famous soft-serve ice cream. Add the craft traditions, the fresh seafood from the nearby sea, and you have a city that rewards a slower, more curious kind of traveler.
