Monte Alban and the Flavors of Oaxaca, Mexico

Monte Alban and the Flavors of Oaxaca.

Oaxaca

Oaxaca is the soul of southern Mexico, a colonial city of golden stone and jacaranda-shaded plazas that is also the country's culinary capital, famed for its complex moles, its street-food markets and the mezcal distilled in the surrounding agave hills. It is a place that rewards slow days, long lunches and unhurried evenings on the square.

On a hilltop above the city spreads Monte Alban, the ancient Zapotec capital, its great plaza, pyramids and ball court commanding sweeping views over three valleys. Leveled from the living rock more than two thousand years ago, it is one of the most dramatically sited ruins in all of Mexico, and we love having you up there in the cool of the morning before the heat builds.

Oaxaca is also the heart of Mexico's indigenous craft traditions, from the burnished black pottery and the vivid alebrije carvings to the handwoven textiles of the valley villages. And it is the most spectacular place in the country to witness the Day of the Dead, when the whole city blooms with marigolds, candles and celebration.

Where
Southern Mexico
Best time
Oct-Apr; Day of the Dead late Oct/early Nov
Good for
Food & culture
Pair it with
Mexico City or the coast

Where it is

On the map.

Monte Alban sits on a hilltop just above the city of Oaxaca; the mezcal towns and craft villages lie in the valleys around.

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What you'll see

On the route.

Monte Alban, Mexico

Stop 01

Monte Alban

The ancient Zapotec capital on a leveled hilltop, its plaza, pyramids and ball court looking out over three valleys.

The markets & moles, Mexico

Stop 02

The markets & moles

Oaxaca's vibrant markets, the source of its seven moles, fresh tlayudas and the long, unhurried lunches the city is built around.

Mezcal & agave, Mexico

Stop 03

Mezcal & agave

A tasting at a palenque in the agave hills, where the smoky spirit is distilled by hand much as it has been for generations.

The colonial city, Mexico

Stop 04

The colonial city

The golden-stone old town and the lavish Santo Domingo church, the graceful heart of Oaxaca's plazas and craft tradition.

Know before you go

The practical details.

Monte Alban

Good to know

Monte Alban

The Zapotec capital sits on a leveled hilltop with grand views, so go in the morning before the heat, allow a couple of hours and consider a guide for the history. It is an easy half-day trip from the city, often combined with a craft village or a mezcal stop.

The food & mezcal

Good to know

The food & mezcal

Oaxaca is a place to eat: try the seven moles, tlayudas, fresh market food and chapulines for the brave, and taste artisanal mezcal at a palenque in the agave hills. Cooking classes and food tours are wonderful here.

When to go

Good to know

When to go

October to April is the most comfortable, dry season. The Day of the Dead around the start of November is the most extraordinary time to visit, with marigold-strewn altars, cemetery vigils and processions, though you must book far ahead as the city fills.

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